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You can purchase arches from suppliers such as Bork Saddlery Hardware (beautifully cast in bronze for $80 per pair) or you can easily make your own set by heating and bending 5/8" steel rod (well, easy for some) to your own specs and welding tabs to the ends. The arches are commonly set 12" apart on the bars.
Usually, saddles have the maker's MARK in some location on the saddle. Many English saddles have the maker's mark on the sweat flap or on the girth buckle protectors, or on a metal tab attached near where the stirrup bars are. Western saddle may have the maker's mark on the latigo keeper or on the skirt, front or back center or both.
Quality of materials may vary a lot too, especially the tree. Current tree prices in custom saddles might range from $350 to $800 and up. The saddle can't be any better than the tree and the difference in quality is considerable. You really need to know who made the tree and how it's going to fit the horse.
Unfortunately, no. It was some years ago. I just remember measuring my a/p pads and making it the same. 45" fabric works, trace the shape, I folded the pad and fabric lengthwise, placed the folds together, traced and cut. One for fabric, and once for the quilted underlining. Then used the cotton binding around the edges.
2728 posts · Joined 2013. #2 · Nov 11, 2013. I've been looking into getting a nice Diamond wool felt saddle pad. It's not a Five Star or anything, but I've heard really good things about them and they're out there for ony $65- less than half the cost of a $200 pad. Not trying to discourage you from making one!
Hi All I have a nice Steele saddle, but the seat feels too big for me. I like a really snugged/locked in feel. I don't want a seat saver/shrinker, since I think that would make it more shallow, but something to shorten it u
Tip for oiling- Put your saddle into the sun, and it'll open the pores up. Oil it, and rub it in well. I like to use a little elbow grease, and rub it in well with my hands. Let it soak a little, take it back into the sun to dry it well, and buff over it with a cloth.
Might also make the saddle a bit slippery. Basically, If saddle is used and dirty, wash with a sponge, water and glycerin soap. Wait to dry. This is important otherwise the next steps will seal in any dirt and you won't have a nice finished product. If saddle has been washed and/or is dry then oil it with 100% pure neatsfoot oil.
There was a bead line around it to make it look like it belonged there and then buffed inside that line. It looked pretty cool I thought. When it burnishes up and slicks, just buff it again. A bronc saddle maker told me they get more mileage out of swells by making them smooth out and buffing than roughout.
actually making the saddle parts are no more difficult than any other leather project as long as you have a good foundation to build on,the foundation being the tree. if you follow tried and true procedures you will be able to make a nice saddle without a whole lot of difficulties. measure twice cut once.