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  2. Significant wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_wave_height

    Significant wave height. In physical oceanography, the significant wave height ( SWH, HTSGW [1] or Hs) is defined traditionally as the mean wave height ( trough to crest) of the highest third of the waves ( H1/3 ). It is usually defined as four times the standard deviation of the surface elevation – or equivalently as four times the square ...

  3. Wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_height

    Wave height is a term used by mariners, as well as in coastal, ocean and naval engineering . At sea, the term significant wave height is used as a means to introduce a well-defined and standardized statistic to denote the characteristic height of the random waves in a sea state, including wind sea and swell. It is defined in such a way that it ...

  4. Sea state - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_state

    The significant wave height H 1/3 — the mean wave height of the highest third of the waves. The mean wave period, T 1. In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period.

  5. Douglas sea scale - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Douglas_sea_scale

    Wave length and height classification. Wavelength. Short wave 100 m – Average wave 100–200 m; Long wave 201 m + Wave height. Low wave 2 m – Moderate wave 2–4 m; High wave 4.01 m + See also. Beaufort scale; Fujita scale; Saffir–Simpson hurricane scale; Sea state; Significant wave height; TORRO scale; References

  6. Wind wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave

    The significant wave height is also the value a "trained observer" (e.g. from a ship's crew) would estimate from visual observation of a sea state. Given the variability of wave height, the largest individual waves are likely to be somewhat less than twice the reported significant wave height for a particular day or storm.

  7. Hudson's equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hudson's_equation

    H s is the design significant wave height at the toe of the structure (m) Δ is the dimensionless relative buoyant density of rock, i.e. (ρ r / ρ w - 1) = around 1.58 for granite in sea water; ρ r and ρ w are the densities of rock and (sea)water (kg/m 3) D n50 is the nominal median diameter of armor blocks = (W 50 /ρ r) 1/3 (m)

  8. Swell (ocean) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell_(ocean)

    The significant wave height is also the value a "trained observer" (e.g. from a ship's crew) would estimate from visual observation of a sea state. Given the variability of wave height, the largest individual waves are likely to be somewhat less than twice the significant wave height. The phases of an ocean surface wave: 1.

  9. Basil Wrigley Wilson - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basil_Wrigley_Wilson

    Wilson's formulas for simplified wind-wave prediction. In 1965, Wilson proposed a method which can be used to approximate the significant wave height H 1/3 and period T 1/3 of wind waves generated by a constant wind of speed U blowing over a fetch length F. The units for these quantities are as follows: H 1/3 in metres (m) T 1/3 in seconds (s)